St Moritz: The Glass Lake

Lady Nature, always a tricky Miss, dared on one of the mild days, to actually rain here for a while, transforming the lake in front of our apartment window from a delightful snow clad frozen plateau, into the glassy vista of the largest skating rink in the memory of the winter wonderland that is St Moritz. It is also a health spa. The earliest recorded visit for a winter snow holiday was in winter of 1864-1865 at the Kulm Hotel apparently.

 

My husband Steve and I have been going away for winter sports holidays as long as we have been together and that is just a few days short of forty years. During those holidays, the people that we met at hotels and apartments had been talking about their fears that the snow holidays were in danger of coming to an end. We have seen series upon series of photographs showing how far the glaciers have receded. 

It may seem that global warming is something that has not affected the average person in the UK, many of whom think that such talk is nonsense, since we still have some pretty awful weather in the winter and our summers don’t seem to have got warmer. They have though haven’t they? We have new rare breeds of birds and butterflies arriving every year now.

From our own standpoint, Steve and I can say that ‘The White Stuff’ has been creeping further and further back up the mountains. In our early days of visiting the Engadine Valley in Switzerland were had to take snow chains to get there before Christmas since it involved a pass climb that was sure to have heavy snow on it, at least at the top, and during a few work trips we have taken the odd weekend here and there to nip to a ski resort as early as November and found plenty of snow.

 

Last year, Christmas in St Moritz was completely clear of snow when we arrived, the lake had not even frozen over although it did freeze during that week but the only skiing was on artificial snow runs. Neither of us skied that year and snow did not arrive until the Saturday morning as we left for home after a two week stay. This Christmas again there was no problem getting over the sunny Julier Pass but there was plenty of snow on the slopes for the ski fans. Steve has skied most days during this holiday.

We always have a marvelous time here because there is so much to keep us happy; There is the previously spoken of Ovaverva, the best swim complex I have seen, that helps keep our training going, we have been able to run, since paths are clear of snow around the St Moritzersee which is now a fabulous glass lake that is swarming with skaters. Every morning huge skating paths are cleared and smoothed for the many people of all ages with and without hockey sticks tearing around at the speed of light or beginners trying skates on for the first time.

It is strange that one feels much happier walking on the frozen lake when it is covered in snow and the community work force have prepared fine wide walking paths. This week it is astonishing to look into the frozen water where you can see how very thick the ice is. 

It is also a little alarming to some visitors to see the massive cracks that appear and immediately seal up leaving icy scars that are so beautifully created as natural modern art. That is one reason the skating paths are cleared daily, because each of those massive cracks can form a ridge on the surface. The sounds are equally fascinating as the lake moans and sings and belches constantly like an ethereal kind of percussion practice that never stops. 

Yesterday afternoon we took our walk around the lake gazing at the fantastic patterns in the frozen water and listening to the weird, sad, mournful, ghostly animal sounds.

We are not night birds and do not go out to socialize of an evening. Steve cooks our dinner, for which he shops daily as he does at home. We may read our books, listen to music or watch some TV, our viewing chosen from the 219 available channels, where there is always some winter sport, biathlon, skiing, ski jumping or an ice gala. These ice shows will hold all those stars who have finished competing in major events and are now earning a living with their skills, as it the Art on Ice show that is superb. This week we twice watched Stèphane Lambiel and Evgeni Plushenko, along with 2014 Olympic medal winners, ice dancers Meryl Davis and Charlie White from the USA skate to the singing and performance of Jessie J. who is looking stunning and the Jacksons, all in one show! The most super entertaining evenings for our tastes anyway.

Tomorrow is our last full day here and we will be going to the Bob Run where there will be racing. We are both big fans of all the winter sports and have been watching the ice hockey on TV in the evening. 

In January they will be building grand stands on the lake ready for the White Turf horse racing meeting. We have also loved watching the polo in other years. There is always something to entertain or to do, though thankfully Steve has given up on taking a few slides down the Cresta Run as he used to but that has now got rather expensive.