The main aim of the last day of my holiday in Reifnitz , Austria ,
was to visit for the fourth time, Gustav Mahler’s little composing hut that is
hidden high in the forest behind his lake front home. It was in a way, nice
that I was the only visitor first thing this morning; I find it quite
astonishing that so few people visit his tiny house in the woods where he wrote
so many major works. Today there was plenty of time to talk with the young
woman who is there both to take the 3 euro’s entry fee and to answer questions
for visitors. She told me that Mahler got up every day at 6am, during the
summer months when he stayed in his summer home in Maiernigg that is just
outside of Klagenfurt .
He would immediately ring for his cook to take his breakfast
up to his composing house. The servant was to take a shorter route carrying a
heavy tray with household china crockery and cutlery with his breakfast. He had
a different jam for every day of the week. Mahler only wore old clothes there
and did not want to see or speak to anybody during his serious daily work
period. The reason for the isolated hut was that even the normal household
noises of family and servants prevented him from writing peacefully. He was
under a great deal of pressure because of his position as the Director of the
Vienna Court Opera.
As I said, this was visit number four for me and I have yet
to go in and move around without tears welling up in my eyes as I listen to
music written whilst he was there, and knowing that he took his family away from
Maiennigg, after his daughter died aged four and a half from Scarlett Fever. He
was later diagnosed with a serious heart defect. The little house is full of
his spirit, I feel him so strongly, as is the area outside where he sat at a bench
table and ate his breakfast. This morning I sat at that table and moved about inside
the house that is only about the size of a modern household garage. There are
letters to read and manuscript music to look at. Photos adorn the walls with
his wife and children. In the afternoons, he swam in the lake, as I have done
during my stay in a hotel just a couple of miles away. He rowed his boat and
walked in the woods for hours.
Looking at the photographs, I was struck by the perfect
choice of Robert Powell to play the great man in a movie that I must have seen
fifty years ago. He looked just like him. My husband has been here with me
twice and was as overcome with emotion as I was, so you see why we get on so
well together. This morning, Steve stayed in the lakeside café near the Mahler
Haus, catching a few rays and sipping a coffee until I returned from my
thoughtful amble up to the house and back on a track that is only shoulder
width in many places, and I provided a fine meal for a mosquito of two on the
journey. I realise that I am a bit of a softy but then I think many classical
music lovers are; romance in the soul you know, that’s the problem.